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North-West

Zaria

Kaduna State

11.0855° N, 7.7199° E

A walled city that became a university town without giving up the walls.

A restored city gate in the earth wall at Zaria, with the road running through it.
Kofar Doka, one of the gates of Zaria. The walls were raised between the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries to mark the city limits and hold off raiders. Photograph: Dappasolomon / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

About this place

Zaria is two towns that share a name. There is the old walled city with its gates, and there is Samaru, built around Ahmadu Bello University, which is among the largest universities in Africa. Students and traders use the same roads and largely ignore each other, which is its own kind of arrangement.

Also known as Zazzau

Everything from Zaria

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History in Zaria

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Field notes from Zaria

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Chidiebere Okafor

You can tell where the wall has been dug into recently: the cut face is a different colour for about a season before it weathers back. Walking a two-kilometre stretch, I counted eleven fresh cuts. Nobody was hiding it; the earth is good and it is free.

Where to go next

Editorial adjacency rather than distance — somewhere it makes sense to go from here.