Jollof, and the argument that will not be settled
The rice dish that every West African country claims, cooked over wood, at scale, for a crowd.
Strand
Food
What is grown, what is carried, what is cooked — and the arithmetic behind all three.
Bees, cattle and the water at Gubi
Bauchi holds highland farms and dry savannah within an hour of each other, and a dam that both depend on.
DispatchMakurdi7.73°N 8.54°E
A city that is entirely about crossing a river
Makurdi exists because of a bridge, grows the country's yam, and floods on a schedule everybody knows.
GuideObudu6.67°N 9.17°E
The road up to the cattle ranch
A Scottish rancher started a cattle station on the Obudu plateau in 1951 because the weather reminded him of home.
What a market day actually costs
Ugu, tomatoes, peppers and stockfish: the arithmetic behind a stall, and why the price is never only the price.