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Bauchi, Bauchi

10.3103° N, 9.8439° E

FoodFood

Bees, cattle and the water at Gubi

Bauchi holds highland farms and dry savannah within an hour of each other, and a dam that both depend on.

Words Tobi Adeyemi

6 min read

A beekeeper in protective clothing working at a hive.
A beekeeper in Bauchi State. Photograph: Usman H Dukku / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

About Bauchi

Bauchi sits where the Jos plateau falls away towards the Sahel, which gives it an unusual range of country in a short drive: highland farms in the south-west, dry savannah in the north-east, and Yankari — the game reserve that was Nigeria's first — in between. The city itself is a Sallah town, and the Durbar here is one of the country's great processions.

Everything from Bauchi

Bauchi sits where the Jos plateau falls away towards the Sahel, and the drive across the state passes through more kinds of country than a state that size has any right to.

The honey is the part worth stopping for. Bauchi honey is dark and slightly smoky, and it is sold along the roadside in whatever bottle was to hand — which is a presentation problem that has kept it out of shops beyond the state, and has nothing to do with the honey.

A herd of cattle wading in the shallows at the edge of a dam.
Cattle at the edge of Gubi Dam, Bauchi State, where the water meets dry ground. Photograph: Martemmedia / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

Gubi Dam supplies Bauchi city and waters the herds along its edge. In a wet year the two uses coexist. In a dry one they do not, and the argument that follows is the argument playing out across the middle of the country in slightly different words.

A lake lying within farmland, with hills behind it.
Photograph: Zisan Duniya / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

If you are going

Buying honey
Roadside sellers on the Jos road. Ask for the dark comb honey rather than the filtered jars, which are usually blended.

Who reported this

Tobi Adeyemi

Food editor · Ibadan

Writes about what people actually eat rather than what a restaurant would like them to. Particularly interested in market days and the economics of a single dish.

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Two, chosen by hand — usually somewhere else in the country.

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