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Calabar, Cross River

4.9757° N, 8.3417° E

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What a month of carnival is actually worth

Calabar stages the largest street festival in Africa every December. The rest of the year is the harder question.

Words Ini Etuk

9 min read

Costumed dancers in bright feathered dress moving along a carnival route.
The Calabar carnival, which runs through December and is now the largest street festival in Africa. Photograph: Koutchika Lihouenou Gaspard / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

About Calabar

Calabar was the capital of the Oil Rivers Protectorate and, before that, one of the busiest slaving ports on the coast. It kept the architecture and the churches and, unusually for a Nigerian city, a reputation for being orderly and clean. Every December it stages a month-long carnival that is now the largest street festival in Africa.

Everything from Calabar

For most of December, Calabar is a carnival town. The bands rehearse from September, the costumes take months, and the parade fills the roads for weeks. It is genuinely the largest street festival on the continent and the city is entitled to say so.

A carnival band in matching costume performing for the crowd.
Dancers in elaborate headdresses at the Calabar carnival.
Carnival performers filling the street at Calabar.
Calabar, December: four frames from the twentieth carnival. Photographs: Koutchika Lihouenou Gaspard / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The economic case has always been made in terms of visitor numbers, and visitor numbers are the easiest figure to inflate and the least useful to have. The more interesting number is how many people are paid, for how long, and whether the work is annual or seasonal.

A city cannot run for eleven months on the strength of the twelfth. Calabar has been trying to for twenty years.

None of this is an argument against the carnival, which is a real cultural achievement built largely by people from the city. It is an argument about what a state expects a festival to do, and whether a festival can carry it.

Sources

Who reported this

Ini Etuk

Editor · Calabar

Edits the south-south coverage. Has argued, at length and in print, that the delta is over-reported and under-described.

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