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Argungu, Kebbi

12.7450° N, 4.5250° E

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The festival that depends on a river that keeps failing

Argungu is famous for one morning a year. The rest of the year is a town watching the water table.

Words Amina Yusuf · Reported with Rakiya Ibrahim

9 min read

Crowds of men standing waist-deep in a river holding fishing nets.
The Argungu fishing festival. At a single signal the river fills with men, and the largest fish taken in about an hour wins. Photograph: Sani Maikatanga / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

About Argungu

Argungu is famous for a fishing festival that draws thousands of men into the river at a single signal. What the festival obscures is that this is a working fishing and farming town on a floodplain, and that the river it depends on has been an unreliable neighbour for two decades. The festival has been cancelled more often than it has been held.

Everything from Argungu

The Argungu fishing festival is the kind of event that photographs so well it has almost detached from the town that holds it. Thousands of men enter the Sokoto-Rima at a signal, with hand nets and gourds, and about an hour later somebody is carrying a fish that weighs more than a child.

It has also been cancelled more often than it has been held over the last two decades. The reasons vary — security, funding, administrative drift — but the one Rakiya Ibrahim keeps a record of is the water.

People crossing a wide river in narrow wooden boats in Kebbi State.
Photograph: Musaddam Idriss / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Upstream dams, irrigation offtake and a rainfall pattern that has become harder to plan around have all been offered as explanations, and they are probably all partly right. What matters locally is simpler: the fishing that the festival celebrates is a real livelihood for a real number of households, and it has been getting thinner.

A dense crowd gathered on the riverbank at the Argungu festival.
Fishermen in the shallows of the Sokoto-Rima river during the festival.
Hand nets and gourds carried by fishermen at the Argungu festival.
Argungu, festival day: the bank, the shallows and the nets. Photographs: Yemi festus / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 4.0)

The festival will likely survive, because it is now a matter of state prestige and there is money behind it for that reason. Whether the fishery survives is a different question, and it is not one a festival can answer.

If you are going

When
The festival, when it is held, falls in the dry season — usually February or March. Confirm before travelling: cancellation is common and is often announced late.

Sources

Who reported this

Amina Yusuf

Writer at large · Kano

Reports across the north and the Middle Belt. Has spent most of the last decade on the trades that outlast the industries built over them.

Rakiya Ibrahim

Teacher · Argungu

Teaches in Argungu and has kept a record of the river's height, by hand, since 2009.

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