The Ibini Ukpabi oracle at Arochukwu was the institution around which the Aro built a trading network reaching across what is now south-eastern Nigeria. Disputes were brought here for judgement. The judgement was authoritative because the oracle was, and the trade followed the authority.
In 1902 a British expedition — described at the time as punitive — destroyed the shrine. The Aro trading system did not survive it, which was the point.

The steps cut down into the gorge are colonial work, put in afterwards. There are seventy-nine of them and they are counted, precisely, by everyone who takes visitors down.

The Ekpo masquerade still performs in the town. It is not a reconstruction and it is not put on for anybody, which visitors sometimes find disappointing and should not.


