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How We Celebrate

A river festival, a forest festival and a month of carnival — and what each one costs the town that holds it.

Dancers in elaborate headdresses at the Calabar carnival.
Photograph: Koutchika Lihouenou Gaspard / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Nigeria's great festivals are reported as spectacle, which they are. They are also budgets, employment schemes, arguments about land and, in at least one case, a fishery under real pressure. Same events, looked at from the town rather than the parade route.

  1. 01

    The festival that depends on a river that keeps failing

    Argungu is famous for one morning a year. The rest of the year is a town watching the water table.

    Words Amina Yusuf · Reported with Rakiya Ibrahim

    9 min read

  2. 02

    The forest that was never allowed to be cleared

    The Osun-Osogbo grove survived because clearing it was forbidden, and became a UNESCO site by accident of that prohibition.

    Words Chidiebere Okafor · Reported with Yemi Ogunlade

    6 min read

  3. 03

    What a month of carnival is actually worth

    Calabar stages the largest street festival in Africa every December. The rest of the year is the harder question.

    Words Ini Etuk

    9 min read