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Nigerian Market Days

Grain in Kano, camels in Maiduguri, yam on the Benue and the largest market in West Africa at Onitsha.

A heap of harvested yams piled at a market stall.
Yams at market. Benue alone grows a large share of the country's crop. Photograph: TopmanJnr1 / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

A market is the most legible thing in a Nigerian town: it will tell you what the land grows, what the road costs, who has money this month and which way the trade is flowing. Four markets, read as documents.

  1. 01

    Everything crosses at Onitsha

    A river port with what is often called the largest market in West Africa, and one bridge holding it all together.

    Words Sule Danjuma

    8 min read

  2. 02

    The camels still come to Maiduguri

    A trade route older than the border it crosses, and a market that has quietly kept working.

    Words Amina Yusuf · Reported with Fatima Modu

    8 min read

  3. 03

    What a market day actually costs

    Ugu, tomatoes, peppers and stockfish: the arithmetic behind a stall, and why the price is never only the price.

    Words Tobi Adeyemi

    6 min read

  4. 04

    A city that is entirely about crossing a river

    Makurdi exists because of a bridge, grows the country's yam, and floods on a schedule everybody knows.

    Words Sule Danjuma

    8 min read