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Along the River Niger

From where the Niger crosses into the country to where it meets the Benue and turns south.

The Niger and the Benue meeting, seen from high ground above Lokoja.
The confluence from Mount Patti. The Niger runs pale with sediment and the Benue darker, and below the join they run side by side for a stretch without mixing. Photograph: Samlokoja / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

The Niger enters Nigeria in the north-west, runs diagonally across it, collects the Benue at Lokoja and goes south to the delta. Almost every argument about how the country is put together — trade, boundaries, flooding, who is upstream of whom — can be told along that line. This is the river, in order.

  1. 01

    The festival that depends on a river that keeps failing

    Argungu is famous for one morning a year. The rest of the year is a town watching the water table.

    Words Amina Yusuf · Reported with Rakiya Ibrahim

    9 min read

  2. 02

    Where two rivers meet and refuse to mix

    At Lokoja the Niger and the Benue join, and for a stretch below the confluence you can see the join.

    Words Sule Danjuma

    9 min read

  3. 03

    A city that is entirely about crossing a river

    Makurdi exists because of a bridge, grows the country's yam, and floods on a schedule everybody knows.

    Words Sule Danjuma

    8 min read

  4. 04

    Everything crosses at Onitsha

    A river port with what is often called the largest market in West Africa, and one bridge holding it all together.

    Words Sule Danjuma

    8 min read